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North Korea

North Korea (officially the Democratic People's Republic of Korea or DPRK; Korean: ???????????) is a country in East Asia located on the northern half of the Korean Peninsula, lying between Korea Bay and the East Sea (Sea of Japan). It borders China to the north, Russia to the north east and South Korea to the south.

Tourists may only travel to North Korea as part of a guided tour. Independent travel is not permitted. Visitors are constantly monitored to ensure they do nothing the state feels could jeopardise the North Korean system and the persons behind it. Undesirable behaviour includes taking photos considered "unsuitable", criticising North Korea, disrespecting the Great Leader, or talking to locals without permission. These actions, among others, will carry heavy consequences for you, and especially for the tour guide responsible for you.

About 1,500 Western tourists visit North Korea every year. Most complete the journey without incident, as long as they follow their ever present guides. Incidents have occurred, and when they do then due process is hard to come by. The most likely consequence of any trouble with the authorities is a period of detention before deportation. You should not travel to North Korea if you are not prepared to accept severe limitations on your movement and behaviour.



  • 1 Pyongyang (Korean: ???) — the capital city and the former capital of Goguryeo during the Three Kingdoms period
  • 2 Chongjin (Korean: ??) — Industrial city in the North East, very rarely visited by tourists
  • 3 Hamhung (Korean: ???) — Northern city, also rarely on official travel itineraries
  • 4 Kaesong (Korean: ???) — former capital during the Goryeo dynasty
  • 5 Nampho (Korean: ???) — industrial centre and port on the western coast
  • 6 Rason (Korean: ???) — Free trade zone on the Russian border, complete with casino
  • 7 Sinuiju (Korean: ????) — bleak industrial city right on the border with China. Probably the easiest ways to look into the country from the outside
  • 8 Wonsan (Korean: ???) — East coast port city slowly opening to tourists, as well as the first ski resort in the country

Other destinations

  • 1 Kumgangsan (Korean: ???) — the scenic Diamond Mountains, accessible on tours from the South
  • 2 Myohyangsan (Korean: ???) — this Mysterious Fragrant Mountain is one of the North's best hiking spots
  • 3 Baekdu Mountains (Korean: ???) — the tallest mountain in Korea and the Kim dynasty's mythical birthplace
  • 4 Panmunjom (Korean: ???) — the last outpost of the Cold War in the DMZ between South and North



Prehistory and founding of a nation

See also: Pre-modern Korea

Archaeological finds of prehistoric toolmaking on the Korean Peninsula date back to 70,000 BC with the first pottery found around 8000 BC. Comb-pattern pottery culture peaked around 3500-2000 BC.

Legend has it that Korea began with the founding of Gojoseon (also called Ancient Chosun) by the legendary Dangun in 2333 BC. Archeological and contemporaneous written records of Gojoseon as a kingdom date back to around 7th-4th century BC. Gojoseon was eventually defeated by the Chinese Han Dynasty in 108 BC and its territories were governed by four Chinese commanderies, but this did not last long. Natives of the peninsula and Manchuria soon reclaimed the territory, namely the Three Kingdoms of Korea, Goguryeo, Silla, and Baekje. The Goguryeo Kingdom (or Koguryo) ruled the entire area of modern North Korea, as well as parts of Manchuria and the northern parts of modern South Korea. Buddhist and Confucian teachings were prominent in the Goguryeo Kingdom, which adopted Buddhism as the state religion in 372. Despite repeated attempts by China, namely the Sui Dynasty and later the Tang Dynasty, to conquer the Korean Peninsula, northern-based Goguryeo managed to repel them. Eventually, Goguryeo fell to a Silla-Tang alliance, which had earlier defeated Baekje. This unified Korea under the Silla dynasty. Even though Tang later invaded, Silla forces managed to drive them out, thus maintaining Korea's independence.

Unified Silla was replaced by the Goryeo (also called Koryo) dynasty, from which the modern name "Korea" derives. One highlight of the Goryeo dynasty was that in 1234 the world's first metal movable type was invented by a Korean named Choe Yun-ui (200 years before Gutenberg's printing press).

Buddhist learning spread during this time and the former Baekje and Goguryeo leaders were treated well. The kingdom saw relative peace until the 8th and 9th centuries when clan leaders led uprisings and toppled the Silla, establishing the Goryeo Dynasty from which the name "Korea" was derived by Westerners. During this period, the nation suffered Mongol invasions, which led to unrest and the eventual establishment of the Joseon Dynasty in 1392.

Joseon Dynasty

The Joseon Dynasty was one of the longest-running dynasties in the world (512 years), ruling from 1392 until 1910. King Sejong the Great's rule was especially celebrated, as he helped create the Korean script, choson'gul, which allowed even the commoners to become literate. He also expanded the nation's military power to drive out Japanese pirates and northern nomads and regain territories that had been lost. The Japanese invaded Korea under the leadership of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, though the Joseon Dynasty managed to drive them out with the support of China's Ming Dynasty, albeit with heavy losses in the Korean peninsula. In spite of its losses, the nation experienced about 200 years of peace, and its isolationist policies allowed it to further develop a uniquely Korean culture and identity.

Rapid modernization stirred by the Second Industrial Revolution created tension between China and Japan as they felt the pressures of Western expansionism, each wanting to extend their influence over Korea. This eventually led to the Sino-Japanese War in 1894, which took place on the Korean Peninsula, devastating the Joseon. Then in 1905, Japan defeated Russia in the Russo-Japanese War, making Korea a protectorate until they were finally able to annex Korea in 1910.

Japanese occupation and a divided Korea

See also: Korean War

The Japanese exercised rule of the peninsula until their defeat in WWII in 1945. Japan was forced to surrender the territory and the Allied Powers divided the nation at the 38th Parallel, with the Soviet Union occupying the northern half and the United States occupying the southern half. The divide was supposed to be temporary; however, the political power struggle between the two nations to gain influence over the unified Korea led each to establish governments within their newly created territories. North Korea was established as its own nation in 1948 with the support of the Soviet Union, following the Soviet Communist model, with Kim Il-Sung as its leader, while at about the same time, Syngman Rhee established a capitalist regime with the support of the United States in the south.

Agitation between the North and South came to a head in 1950 when the North started the Korean War by attempting to reunify the country under its terms by launching an invasion. The Soviet Union and China fought alongside the North against the South, who were in turn backed by the United Nations (UN) forces led by the United States. The UN forces drove the North Korean forces all the way up to the Chinese border, whereupon Chinese reinforcements forced the UN forces to be driven back south. The war finally resulted in the signing of an armistice in 1953, largely maintaining the original borders set prior to the war. Because no peace treaty has been signed since the armistice, the nations of South Korea and North Korea are officially still at war.

Modern North Korea

With the nation in shambles after the war, Kim Il-Sung launched a campaign to unite the people by defaming the United States with Soviet support and purging the nation of dissidents and anyone thought to oppose him. He sided with China during the Sino-Soviet Split on Communist philosophy because he disliked Krushchev's reforms but began to praise the Soviet Union once again when China underwent its Cultural Revolution, straining relations with both neighbours. Consequently, he developed his own ideology, Juche (self-reliance), to create the sort of Communism he wanted for his nation. Throughout his life, Kim Il-Sung added to and clarified the Juche ideology in order to justify his governing decisions.

The Korean War not only divided the people, but it also divided the labour force. When the peninsula was united, North Korea had most of the nation's industries while South Korea was the agricultural centre. This divide allowed North Korea to initially bounce back faster than the South in the rebuilding process. The Soviet Union then funded agricultural efforts in the North, in accordance with the Communist model. This system began to unravel in the late 1970s and 1980s as the Soviet system began to falter. With the end of Soviet aid following its dissolution in 1991, there was no way to continue to support the agricultural systems' needs for fuel, fertilizer and equipment. After so many years of government mismanagement, and the bad timing of severe flooding, the North's agricultural system collapsed in the mid-1990s, leading to widespread famine and death for countless North Koreans. The death of Kim Il-Sung in 1994 took place while the nation tried to deal with the crisis, slowing government response as the new leader, Kim Jong-Il, took his father's position.

The North finally allowed international relief agencies to assist, and the worst aspects of the famine were contained. However, the DPRK continues to rely heavily on international food aid to feed its population while at the same time continuing to expend resources on its "songun", or "military first" policy, which Kim Jong-Il introduced and used in conjunction with his father's Juche ideology (which he "interpreted").

Today the DPRK maintains an army of about 1 million infantrymen, most stationed close to the DMZ which divides the two Koreas. North Korea's long-range missile development and research into nuclear, chemical, and biological weapons and massive conventional armed forces are of major concern to the international community. In December 2002, Kim Jong-Il reneged on a 1994 "Agreed Framework" signed by his father which required the shut down of its nuclear reactors, expelling UN monitors and further raising fears that the nation would produce nuclear weapons. Missile testing was conducted in 1998, 2006 and April 2009. In October 2006 North Korea announced that it had conducted its first nuclear test. These actions have led to UN and other international sanctions.

Current negotiations, most notably the "Six-Party Talks" involving China, Russia, Japan, North Korea, South Korea and the United States, are aimed at bringing about an end to the DPRK nuclear weapons programme, in hopes that a peace treaty to officially end the Korean War may finally be agreed upon, paving the way for the opening of diplomatic ties between North Korea and the United States. Unfortunately, in March 2010, a South Korean ship was sunk near the 38th parallel, increasing tensions between North and South Korea. Although North Korea claims not to have attacked the ship, the blame has largely been placed on North Korea.

The death of Kim Jong-Il in late 2011 created a measure of uncertainty during the transfer of power to his son Kim Jong-Un; however, the country has since appeared to have stabilised (although considerable tensions have occurred intermittently).


North Korea may be the most ethnically homogeneous nation on earth, with everyone being Korean save for a few hundred foreigners. These foreigners are mostly diplomatic or aid agency workers, along with a small population of Japanese who have Korean ancestry. Almost no South Koreans live in North Korea.

North Korean society is strongly divided and organised along a caste system known as Songbun. Membership of one of three main groups is determined not only by an individual's political, social and economic background, but also that of their family for the previous three generations. Education and professional opportunities are effectively defined by an individual's class.


The climate is generally classed as continental, with rainfall concentrated in summer. Summer months are warm, but winter temperatures can fall as low as -30°C. Late spring droughts are often followed by severe flooding. There are occasional typhoons during the early autumn.


Mostly hills and mountains separated by deep, narrow valleys; coastal plains are wide in the west and discontinuous in the east. The mountainous interior is both isolated and sparsely populated.


Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea, Barbara Demick. An excellent book recounting the lives of six North Koreans who managed to defect and find their way to South Korea. Provides a compelling picture of the miseries and occasional beauty in the lives of ordinary North Koreans during the famine of the 90s. ISBN 0385523912

Eyes of the Tailless Animals: Prison Memoirs of a North Korean Woman, by Soon Ok Lee. First-hand accounts of the prison system within North Korea

Escape from Camp 14: One Man's Remarkable Odyssey from North Korea to Freedom in the West, by Blaine Harden. The riveting story of Shin Dong-hyuk, one of the only known surviving escapees of a North Korean prison camp, and his perilous journey out of the country.

Without You There Is No Us, by Suki Kim. A fascinating piece of investigative journalism about teaching English as a foreigner in Pyongyang.

Get in

Visiting North Korea can be challenging and you will not have the freedom to explore the country without a North Korean escort, either as part of a group or individual tour. Entry conditions change frequently and without notice depending on the geopolitical situation. For example, North Korea was virtually closed to tourism between October 2014 and March 2015 due to an Ebola scare, despite no cases of the disease in or anywhere near the country.


Citizens of almost all countries will need a visa, which will only be issued after your tour has been booked and approved by the North Korean authorities.

Tourists typically arrange a tourist visa through booking a tour with a travel agency that organises such tours. The travel agencies will usually deal with the visa on their behalf, although in some cases tourists are required to have a short telephone interview with the North Korean embassy in order to verify their identity and their job. In most cases the interview is conducted in a friendly manner so it is nothing to be worried about. Visas are often only confirmed on the day before the tour, but rarely will a tourist ever be rejected unless you show that you are of political status or a journalist.

North Korean tourists visas are often issued on a tourist card. If joining a tour group, group visas are often issued on separate sheets of papers containing all the members of the group, attached with a tourist card that bear the name of the tour leader. This visa itself is never held by the tourists, although tourists can ask to take a photo of their visa. In any case no stamp will be placed in the passport. The only way where a visa and entrance stamp will be stamped on the passport is when the visa is issued within a North Korean embassy in Europe.

Additional restrictions

Journalists or those suspected of being journalists require special permission, which is quite difficult to obtain. The North Koreans do not allow journalists to visit the country on tourist visas.

Most restrictions on American citizens were lifted in 2010, although tourists are still usually not allowed to travel by train or participate in homestay programs. These restrictions do not apply to tours arranged by exchange programs like Choson Exchange and The Pyongyang Project.

Citizens of Malaysia were being prevented from leaving North Korea after the March 2017 assassination of Kim Jong-Nam, where Malaysia wanted several North Korean diplomats and nationals for questioning. While restrictions for Malaysians leaving North Korea have now been lifted, the era of visa-free travel between these once relatively 'friendly' countries is over.

Citizens of South Korea are not permitted to enter North Korea unless they have permission from the governments of both the North, for entry, and the South from the Ministry of Unification (???). South Korean citizens may face a lengthy prison sentence under the National Security Act (?????) on their return if they do not obtain permission beforehand. South Korean citizens travelling to North Korea on a passport from a different country still risk prosecution.

Contrary to rumour, Israelis and Jewish citizens of other countries do not face any additional restrictions.


North Korea can only be visited by an organised tour, but this can be a large group or a party of one. Prices start from around USD1,000/€700/GBP580 for a 5-day group tour including accommodation, meals and transport from Beijing, but can go up considerably if you want to travel around the country or "independently" (as your own one-person escorted group). Tour operators/travel agencies that organise their own tours to North Korea include:

  • Asia Pacific Travel Ltd - Chicago, USA
  • Choson Exchange - Singapore, UK & USA. Not a tour agency, rather they provide training in business and economics in Pyongyang, but they occasionally bring people to visit North Korean universities
  • DDCTS - Dandong, China
  • Experience North Korea - Shanghai, China
  • Juche Travel Services - UK, Beijing
  • Korea Konsult - Stockholm, Sweden
  • Korea Reisedienst - Hannover, Germany
  • Koryo Tours and Koryo Group - Beijing, Shanghai, Belgium, UK. Also organises school visits and sports exchanges and has co-produced 3 documentary films about North Korea
  • Lupine Travel - Wigan, UK.
  • NoordKorea2GO - Amsterdam, Netherlands
  • North Korea Travel - Sheyang, China
  • The Pyongyang Project - Yanji, China / Vancouver, Canada (Canadian non-profit that organises academic programmes, student trips, exchanges and Korean language study abroad at universities in the DPRK and Yanbian)
  • Pyongyang Travel - Berlin, Germany (offers group tours, private tours and New Year's Tours to North Korea)
  • Viajes Pujol - Barcelona, Spain
  • Regent Holidays - Bristol, UK
  • Tongil Tours - Canberra/Sydney - organizes group tours, custom private tours and study tours as well as academic and cultural exchanges, guides all speak Korean and have academic backgrounds in Korean Studies.
  • Universal Travel Corporation - Singapore
  • Uri Tours Inc. - NYC, US (runs standard and customized tours to the DPRK; also an Air Koryo ticketing agent in the US)
  • VNC Asia Travel - Utrecht, Netherlands
  • Young Pioneer Tours
  • Your Planet - Hilversum, Netherlands

No matter which company you decide to book with, all tours are run by the Korean International Travel Company (with the exception of a few, such as Choson Exchange and The Pyongyang Project who both work directly with various government ministries and domestic DPRK NGOs) and it will be their guides who show you around. The average number of tourists per group each company takes will vary considerably so you may want to ask about this before booking a trip.

Most people travelling to North Korea will travel through Beijing and you will probably pick up your visa from there, although some agents arrange their visas elsewhere beforehand though. The North Korean consulate building is separate from the main embassy building at Ritan Lu, and is round the corner at Fangcaodi Xijie. It's open M, W, F 09:30-11:30 & 14:00-17:30; and Tu, Th, Sa 09:30-11:30. Bring your travel permission, USD45 and two passport photos.

Your guides will take your passport and keep it during your stay in North Korea, or at least for the first couple of days of your tour, for "security reasons", or simply because your entry and exit dates must be registered, as noted by the black stamps on the back of your visa or passport. Make sure your passport looks decent and doesn't differ from the most common passports from your country.

Visiting the North Korean border area from South Korea

The Panmunjom Joint Security Area (often called by the misnomer Panmunjom) is the only place in North Korea that can be visited from the South by regular tourists. This is the jointly controlled truce village in the Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) dividing the two Koreas. It has regular one-day bus tours from Seoul. Restrictions apply to specific nationalities.

Group bus tours to Kaesong and Kumgangsan in North Korea from the South were available until 2009. It is unclear if and when these will operate again.

By plane

All international flights go through Pyongyang's Sunan International Airport (IATA: FNJ). No other North Korean airport handles international flights. Only two commercial airlines fly to Sunan: Air Koryo, the national North Korean airline, and Air China. As of August 2013 neither Aeroflot nor China Southern Airlines fly to North Korea.

Air Koryo

North Korea's sole airline, Air Koryo, currently has scheduled flights from Beijing, which depart at 11:30 every Tuesday and Saturday, and return from Pyongyang at 09:00 on the same days. Air Koryo also flies to and from Shenyang every Wednesday and Saturday, and to Vladivostok every Tuesday morning. There are also services to Kuala Lumpur and Kuwait.

Air Koryo is the only 1-star (worst) airline on Skytrax's list, a distinction it has held for many years. It has been previously banned in the EU due to concerns over safety. Although Air Koryo last experienced a fatal accident back in 1983, the airline only operates a handful of flights with its fleet of 10 aircraft. The main reason for flying Air Koryo is the experience: otherwise, it's probably better to fly Air China. The Air Koryo fleet consists entirely of Soviet or Russian-made aircraft, with the pride of their fleet being two Tupolev Tu-204s, which now usually handle the core Beijing–Pyongyang route as well as the Beijing-Shengyang route. Otherwise, you'll most likely end up on one of their Ilyushin IL-62-Ms (1979-1988 vintage), Tupolev Tu-154s or Tupolev Tu-134s.

Air China

Air China, a member of the Star Alliance, flies three times weekly from Beijing to Pyongyang using Boeing 737s. Air China is preferred by most to Air Koryo due to its far more modern fleet.

By train

Train K27/K28 connects Pyongyang to Beijing in China via Tianjin, Tangshan, Beidaihe, Shanhaiguan, Jinzhou, Shenyang, Benxi, Fenghuangcheng, Dandong and Sinuiju four times a week. There is only one class on the international train between Beijing and Pyongyang: soft sleeper. It can be booked at the station in Beijing, but reservations must be made several days in advance. Your tour agency will usually do this for you, unless you are travelling on work purposes. It has been increasingly difficult to book space on the Beijing–Pyongyang route, so confirm your tickets well in advance.

Once a week train K27/K28 also conveys direct sleeping cars from Moscow via China to Pyongyang and vice versa. The route is Moscow - Novosibirsk - Irkutsk - Chita - Harbin - Shenyang - Dandong - Shinuiju - Pyongyang. Departure from Moscow is every Friday evening, arrival at Pyongyang is one week later on Friday evening. Departure from Pyongyang is Saturday morning, arrival in Moscow is Friday afternoon.

There is also a direct rail link into Russia, crossing the North Korean/Russian border at Tumangan/Khasan. This route is served by a direct sleeping carriage Moscow - Pyongyang and vice versa and runs twice monthly (11th and 25th from Moscow), arriving Pyongyang 9 days later. However, since the mid-nineties this has not been an officially permitted route for tourists, and KITC refuses to organize trips using this route; a few Western tourists have been able to take this train into North Korea, but reports indicate that further trips on this route would probably be unsuccessful.

Some agents (Lupine Travel) can arrange to cross the border from Dandong to Sinuiju by minibus and then board a domestic North Korean train to Pyongyang. Usually you will be seated in a hard seat carriage with KPA soldiers and party workers travelling with their families. There is access to a restaurant car which stocks imported beers (Heineken) and soft drinks as well as some local beers and spirits. This train is supposed to take around 4 hr to reach Pyongyang but has been known to take as long as 14. If travelling in winter be prepared for temperatures inside the carriages as low as -10°C.

By boat

There was an unscheduled cargo-passenger ship between Wonsan and Niigata, Japan. Only available for use by some Japanese and North Korean nationals, the boat service has been suspended indefinitely due to North Korea's reported nuclear testing; Japan has banned all North Korean ships from entering Japanese ports, and has banned North Koreans from entering the country. Be careful about getting too close to the North Korean border in a boat; many South Korean fishermen are still waiting to leave North Korea.

Besides the unscheduled ferry there is also a cruise ship that operates between the coast of Northeastern China, and Mt Kumgang. Joint operated by China and North Korea the cruise line uses a 40 year old ship. The cruise trip is 22 hr long at each leg, and is 44 hr long in total but non-Chinese citizens are not permitted on the cruise to Mount Kumgang.

By bus

A bus is theoretically available from Dandong, China, across the Yalu River to Sinuiju. It's run by the "Dandong China Travel Company" but is only open to Chinese citizens at present.

Get around

All your transport needs will be dealt with by your tour company. Most of the time this means buses, although tour groups visiting remote sites (e.g. Paekdusan, Mount Chilbo) occasionally use chartered flights by Air Koryo. Wandering around on your own is not allowed, and you are required to have a guide to escort you at all times.

A carefully stage-managed one-station ride on the P'y?ngyang metro is included on the itinerary of most trips to Pyongyang, but use of any other form of local public transport is generally impossible. Some tours also include a train ride from Pyongyang to the border city of Sinuiju, in which you can stop over in Sinuiju for a 1-day tour, though this option is not available to US citizens.

If travelling in a small enough group it is also possible to organise a walk through some areas of Pyongyang with some travel agents (Koryo).


The official language is Korean. Note that North Koreans are quite picky about referring to Korean as Choseonmal, not hangungmal. Unlike South Korea, North Korea has abolished Chinese hanja characters and uses hangeul characters, known as Choseongul, exclusively.

Your guides will speak fairly decent and understandable English (some better than others) and will translate something if you wish. Some guides have the ability to speak Mandarin, German, Russian, Japanese or Spanish.

Although locals may be discouraged from speaking with foreigners due to government propaganda that implies foreigners are generally up to no good, and language can prove to be an additional barrier, there is no formal law preventing citizens of the DPRK from interacting with tourists. A visit to the DPRK around their holidays may give you more of a chance to interact with the locals.


All tours are accompanied by a government minder, who will decide what you can and cannot see. From the moment you leave your hotel, expect to be accompanied by one or more minders. Besides ensuring that tourists do not stray outside of the designated tourist areas, their jobs include inspecting any photographs which they think do not portray North Korea or its government in a good light, and ordering photographers to delete them. It is generally advisable to listen to what your minder is saying, and agree with it. Asking awkward socio-political questions will result in vague, evasive replies at best, and several hours of interrogation at worst.

It is always recommended that if you are uncertain about taking pictures anywhere, ask your guide, though allowances seem to vary wildly. You may get a guide that is relatively relaxed and will allow you to take pictures from a bus or within a city. On the other hand, you may get one that will strictly adhere to controlling where you take pictures restricting anything taken from a tour bus or of certain areas, like Pyongyang's city streets, in general. There is simply no way to tell until you are actually on a tour. If you think a particular photograph might be embarrassing to the DPRK in general, ask or simply don't risk taking it at all.

Photography of military personnel is also generally prohibited. Again, if in doubt, ask your guide. However, there are instances where it is impossible not to photograph certain sites without including a few military personnel within the picture such as at Mansudae (the monument site for the statues of Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il) or at a local funfair. Reactions seem to vary between being ignored to curiosity, although you will be told where taking pictures is strictly prohibited (such as at certain areas of the DMZ), and the guards/soldiers there will react unfavourably to being photographed in general. Other areas where photographs are prohibited include the interior of the Friendship Exhibition, which displays gifts from around the world to Kim Il Sung and Kim Jong Il, and within the Kumsusan Memorial Palace. If you leave the country via train (to Beijing) your camera will likely be checked for unfavorable photos by the guards.

The majority of sightseeing consists of visits to various war memorials, monuments to the Great Leader and the Workers Party of Korea, and numerous museums (mostly war-related, like the statues and monuments). The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is a popular destination for most tour groups in North Korea.

Whilst you are in North Korea, the prevailing viewpoint places blame on the Americans for starting the Korean War; disagreeing with this position is likely to cause problems for both you and your guide, particularly as the two Koreas are still legally at war with only a cease-fire between them. Despite its misleading name, the DMZ is heavily guarded and dotted with minefields and other booby-traps. Under no circumstances shall you stray from your group, or take any photographs of military installations. However, the "peace village" Panmunjom may be photographed, and boasts the world's third tallest flagpole.

Whilst on these guided tours, especially to the state museums and monuments, you will undoubtedly endure an ongoing barrage of propaganda, consisting largely of anecdotes about things that Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il did for their country. Some of these claims may seem bizarre and even amusing to the outsider; however, a straight face is generally advisable. It is generally safest to at least appear to take everything they say seriously, even if it contradicts everything you were ever taught in history class or defies even the most basic human reasoning.


So, with all this practical information being said, what are the places to go? A good part of the important attractions you'll be shown are in Pyongyang. Even if you're not here in time to see the Arirang Mass Games, there's plenty to see. There's the large Kim Il-sung Square, where the famously grand military parades take place. Even without the parades, though, it's an impressive square, and on it is the Grand People’s Study House. This gigantic library and learning centre is home to over 30 million books and a modern system of conveyor belts to get you the one you need. Also on the square are two museums, of which — the Korean National Art Gallery — is the more interesting one. The other great landmark of the nation's capital is its Triumphal Arch. Slightly bigger than its Parisian counterpart, it is in fact the largest arch of its kind in the world. Another landmark you'll be proudly shown are the large bronze statues of the Great Leader and Kim Jong-il. Respectfully join the locals in their serious undertakings to honour the statues, which are a key element of the devotion cult around the national leaders. For a better chance of some casual conversations with locals, try the pleasant Pyongyang zoo. Take a daytrip to the birthplace of the Great Leader in Mangyongdae and of course, visit the Kumsusan Palace of the Sun where both the previous Kim's embalmed bodies are on display.

No trip to North Korea is complete without an extensive glance at the uneasy and heavily fortified border stand-off at Panmunjeom, or the Joint Security Area. Not far from here is the town of Kaesong, with a lovely old town and the UNESCO-listed tomb of King Kongmin. For stunning natural sights, try reaching Kumgangsan, or the Diamond Mountains, where you'll find beautiful vistas, waterfalls, lakes and ancient Buddhist temples.


As mentioned above, there is very little to do beyond the watchful eye of your designated minder(s), with most recreational activity taking place within the confines of the tourist resorts. Bowling and karaoke are among the latest additions to its surprising plethora of recreational activities. The karaoke videos are often accompanied by dramatic historical footage of the Korean War, or goose-stepping People's Army soldiers.

North Korea has three amusement parks, two of which are abandoned due to mutual lack of interest and electricity. Sadly, the Kaeson Youth Fair has now closed, taking the infamous "Roller Coaster of Death" along with it. Still visible are the shooting-galleries with backdrops of snarling American and Japanese soldiers; however, it is unlikely that your guide will let you venture into any abandoned areas. The one remaining amusement park contains some rides which are actually quite modern and non-lethal, at least by North Korean standards, and is about as worthy of a visit as everything else you'll see whilst in North Korea.

The nightlife in Pyongyang is remarkably safe and non-violent, compared to the capitals of other nations (except maybe Reykjavík in Iceland); in general, the civilians are not a threat. The plain-clothes secret police, however, may or may not be a threat, depending on what you say or do. The North Korean definition of popular music is at least two decades behind the rest of the world; expect an onslaught of 80s hits from the West (some obviously are unauthorized copies, to judge by the quality), punctuated by the eerie caterwauling of Korean folk songs, and at least try to look enthusiastic about the whole scene.

You will not find newspapers or magazines from outside North Korea (since media from outside the country is generally banned for ordinary North Koreans). Foreign broadcasts are jammed and the only radio and television allowed is government propaganda, although several international news outlets (including BBC World News and NHK World) are available in tourist hotels. Fortunately, alcohol is cheap and plentiful, although it is not advisable to become intoxicated and make a scene of oneself. Furthermore, both the trafficking and consumption of narcotics are punished VERY severely by authorities; traffickers can expect to face the death penalty if caught.

Finally, please note that power cuts may hit without warning in the middle of any activity. Whilst you might welcome this if the jukebox is starting to get to you, this is not a desirable outcome if you are in the middle of an amusement-park ride, particularly as these blackouts can last for hours at a time.

The Masikryong ski resort, North Korea's only ski resort, opened in winter 2013. Located near the western city of Wonsan, a visit to the resort may be included as part of a wider DPRK tour.



The currency is the North Korean won, denoted by the symbol"? (ISO code: KPW) and not typically available to foreigners at all. Black market exchange rates (especially in far northern Korea, near the Chinese border) may easily be 20 times the official rate, but importing or exporting Korean won is strictly forbidden. North Korean Won are practically worthless outside the country but can make unique souvenirs.

Foreigners are expected to use euros or as an alternative Chinese renminbi, US dollars or Japanese yen. Currency handling is often bizarre, with a frequent lack of change and a number of rule-of-thumb conversions leading to highly unorthodox transactions, so be sure to bring lots of small change.On a typical tour most expenses such as hotel, transportation, and meals will have been paid in advance, and therefore your only expenses may be bottled water, souvenirs, snacks, drinks at the bars, laundry at the hotel and tips for your guides.

In any case, the only shops you will be likely allowed to visit are the state-run souvenir shops at your hotel and at the various tourist attractions. It is generally not possible to visit a real local shop which serves the local population, though you might get lucky asking your guide if he/she trusts you enough.


There are numerous hard-currency only souvenir shops at tourist sites. Interesting souvenirs include propaganda books and videos, postcards and postage stamps. At some tourist sites (such as King Kongmin's tomb), you can purchase freshly finished paintings with your name and the artist's name at the bottom.

You can buy postcards and send them to people in any country except South Korea which apparently will not deliver them.

Some excellent paintings on silk or linen have been available in Kaesong directly from the artist. Haggling for better prices is not permitted but the prices are very low.


Most costs are included as part of your tour. Most sights have a shop associated with them where you can buy bottled water, souvenirs and snacks. These are reasonably priced. In August 2007, large bottles of local beer cost USD2 at the hotel bars in Pyongyang. If you haven't planned on spending money on gambling at the casino at Yanggakdo Hotel, €200 for one week should be enough to cover your costs of water, drinks at the bars, souvenirs and tips for the guides.


As with most other aspects of visiting North Korea, catering is usually organised in advance as part of your tour. Vegetarians and people with food allergies or dislikes of common foods such as seafood or eggs will need to make arrangements in advance. A visit to a "real" local restaurant may be possible; enquire with your guide. Shortages of supplies, combined with the typical use of Korean cooking styles, mean that there is a relatively limited variety of food - and this can get wearying on tours of more than a few days.

There are a few Western food options now in Pyongyang and these restaurants can usually be visited if arranged with the guides in advance. They will usually require additional payment though (unless you have discussed this already with your tour operator) as the costs are not included in the per diem fee charged by the Korean Travel Company. There are two Italian restaurants (one on Kwangbok Street which is near the Korean circus where the pizza is great, and they have imported a pizza oven and all the ingredients so the quality is very high; and one near the USS Pueblo) and two burger restaurants (the more accessible is in the Youth Hotel). Both are inexpensive and do inject some flavour onto a generally lacklustre eating scene - especially on long tours! Visit the Vienna coffee house, which is on the river side of Kim Jong Il square, for a pretty good coffee served like you would get in Europe.


The local speciality is insam-ju, Korean vodka infused with ginseng roots.

Locally made Taedonggang beer is very good. The brewery was purchased from Ushers in the UK and physically moved to Pyongyang, and some of the sojus are not bad either. Local alcohol is inexpensive; a 650mL bottle of beer is €0.50. Imported beers, such as Heineken, are also available at similar prices. However do not get drunk and cause trouble. Toe the line and show respect, or you and your guide will face serious penalties.

It is advisable to stick to bottled water for drinking as the tap water is not always properly treated.


This is likely to be your principal expense while in North Korea. You may only stay at "designated tourist hotels", for which you will need to pay in hard currency. There may be discounts if you ask for lower class accommodation, if you are travelling as part of a group, or if it is low season (November – March). Costs for your tour, which will include accommodation, all sightseeing activities and meals, will range from USD70 to USD200 a day, depending on these factors.

Usually you pay for all your meals, hotel and Beijing–Pyongyang journey to your tour operator before you leave. One week in high season at a four-star hotel will then cost something between €1,300 and €1,600, depending on your tour operator, but might get as low as €800 for one week.


It can be difficult for foreigners to become students in North Korea, although university exchange programmes may be possible.

The Pyongyang Project arranges tours of North Korea with an academic focus, with the aim of participants learning about the country rather than just sightseeing.

Yanbian University, in the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture in north eastern China is closely affiliated with other universities in North Korea and can offer relevant courses for learning about North Korea.


If you are interested in teaching in North Korea, you may find success by contacting the North Korean UN Mission in New York, or contacting a North Korean university directly. Your odds of success are, however, quite low: there is only a small team of 4 English Language Instructors dealing with teaching and teacher training, with a Project Manager leading the team of three, placed in Kim Il Sung University, Pyongyang University of Foreign Studies and Kim Hyung Jik University of Education.

There is an opportunity to teach in the Pyongyang Summer Institute during summer time when it is opened to foreigners. It's voluntary, unpaid work, though.

Stay safe

Crime levels are practically zero, at least to tourists on a strictly controlled tour. However, pickpockets are the least of your worries. The authorities are very touchy, and you need to watch what you say and how you say it. Just do what the guides do, praise every stop on your tour, and remember the rule, "If you have nothing good to say, don't say anything at all."

Also, the official policy is that you are not to wander around on your own. You are expected to get permission and/or have a guide accompany you if you are leaving your hotel on your own. This will vary depending on what hotel you are in. The Yanggakdo Hotel is on an island in the middle of the Taedong River in Pyongyang. Therefore you can walk around the area a little more freely than if you are at the Koryo Hotel right in the centre of town. You should always be friendly and courteous to your guides and driver who will normally reciprocate by trusting you more and giving you more freedom.

For taking photographs, one needs to exercise restraint, caution and common sense. If you appear to be looking for negative images of North Korea, the guides will not be happy and will tell you to delete any questionable images. In particular, you are not to take photos of anything military, including personnel, or anything showing the DPRK in a bad light.

As noted before, your photographic freedom can largely depend on the type of guides that you are assigned and the rapport that you have with them. In a best case scenario, you can often take pictures without feeling as if you're trying to sneak them by anyone and without pressure capturing some truly unique images. If you are in an area that prohibits picture taking, you will also be informed of this and it is best to simply follow your guide's direction. When in doubt, always ask. Your guide might even want to try out your camera and take a picture of you for your collection.

In a worst-case scenario, you can be expected to raise your camera at a reasonable speed, compose and take the picture, and lower the camera at a reasonable speed. Don't try to take pictures of anything that you have been told not to, such as military personnel or certain locales. This may call attention to yourself and the image you are trying to take and can result, whether justified or not, in your being told to delete the image.

Digital cameras are commonly inspected when leaving the country by train. A simple workaround is to leave a memory card with innocuous snaps in the camera and file away any cards with ideologically dubious content.

Visitors of Korean descent should never reveal this fact. North Koreans have a very strong sense of ethnic belonging and this will inevitably draw unwanted attention to you. Furthermore, if you run into trouble then holding a foreign passport will not count for much if you are considered a Korean by the authorities.

Visitors have also been targeted for political reasons; in 2013, an 85-year-old American citizen was arrested, briefly incarcerated and expelled by the DPRK because of his military service during the Korean War.

Drug trafficking and the consumption of narcotics can be punishable by death in North Korea. Marijuana, however, is legal and often found growing freely alongside the road in North Korea.

It is strongly recommended that you avoid bringing religious texts or performing any religious activity. In 2012, Kenneth Bae, an American Christian missionary, was arrested for his religious activities in North Korea, and was sentenced to 15 years of hard labour (however, he was released nine months later). Additionally, another American, Jeffrey Fowle, was arrested for leaving a Bible at a North Korean nightclub, and spent six months in a North Korean jail.

Stay healthy

Drinking water in North Korea is apparently untreated and there are reports of foreigners being hospitalized in the DPRK after drinking the water; therefore, sticking to bottled water is highly recommended.

Medical facilities are clean although very outdated. If you fall ill then you might be better off going to China for medical treatment. Contact your embassy or consulate in North Korea (if your country has one) for assistance.


It is important to emphasize that the government of the DPRK — in particular the leaders Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il and Kim Jong-un — are, at least publicly, very highly revered in North Korean culture. While slavish devotion is not expected from tourists, especially given that the Juche philosophy of the DPRK is specifically aimed at the Korean people only and is not applicable to foreigners, insulting them in any way is highly offensive and illegal, and will get you and (much more so) your guides into trouble. It is not worth inadvertently threatening their lives by insulting their leaders.

It is advisable to refer to North Korea as the DPRK instead when discussing it with your guides. DPRK stands for the Democratic People's Republic of Korea and is the official name for the country reflecting their belief that the south (not capitalized) is occupied territory. You will also notice this referenced in their literature in the same way (i.e. as "south Korea").

The DPRK has very strict laws about taking pictures though there are many great photographing opportunities around the country, particularly in cities such as Pyongyang. Again, this largely depends on the guides assigned to you and how relaxed they feel to trust that you won't do anything to embarrass them. While it may have been true in the past to "not look at" or "take pictures of" people in the DPRK, you may be also surprised to be able to take a picture of a wedding couple or of a grandmother taking her grandson out for a walk and waving back at you. Also, do not take photographs of anything that could be of strategic importance (i.e. places with a soldier(s)/policemen in front of it) or of things that you been told specifically not to. Again, as emphasized before, always ask your guides if you are ever in doubt.

Bringing gifts like cigarettes or Scotch for the men, both guides and the driver, and chocolate or skin cream for female guides, is a nice gesture. Please be respectful toward your guides, especially since North Korean guides are known to occasionally take tourists whom they trust well enough to see other places and events in North Korea that they wouldn't ordinarily go to. This can also extend to how freely they may feel about your picture taking. Remember, they may be as curious about you as you are about them.

Most, if not all, tour groups to the DPRK are asked to solemnly bow and lay flowers on one or two occasions in front of statues of Kim Il Sung when visiting monuments of national importance. If you're not prepared to do this, do not even try to enter North Korea. Just be sure you always act in a respectful manner around images of the two leaders. This includes taking respectful photos of any image of them. When photographing statues, especially Mansudae, be sure to get the entire statue in the photo. Formal dress is also expected at important monuments such as Mansudae or in visiting the Kumsusang Memorial Palace.

Any trouble you cause as a tourist will likely be blamed on your tour guide's inability to control you, and he or she will bear the brunt of the penalties. Additionally, future tourists will be allowed less freedom and will face increased restriction on where they can visit and what they can photograph.

Other than your tour guide, you will likely not meet anyone else in your trip who speaks English; a few Korean words and phrases are a nice internationalist gesture.

Despite the sharp political differences, North and South Koreans generally share a common culture; the various tips in the South Korea article under respect (such as using two hands to pour drinks) will also help here.


North Korea is officially atheist. The regime promotes a national philosophy of self-reliance called 'Juche' (??) which some would categorize as a political religion that pervades all aspects of life in the country. As a tourist you would not be expected to observe this, although you must always be respectful towards symbols of 'Juche' which are often the images of past and present leaders Kim Il-sung, Kim Jong-il and Kim Jong-un.

Although religion such as Christianity and Buddhism is allowed de jure, it is vigorously suppressed in practice with severe punishment being given to followers. You should still refrain from any religious discussions during your time in North Korea, and be aware that any form of religious proselytizing is dealt with very seriously by the regime, with foreign missionaries having previously been sentenced to life imprisonment in labor camps. With this in mind, be careful of performing even personal religious rituals or bringing religious items into the country and preferably do not do so at all.


For medical emergencies dial 02 382 7688 (Pyongyang number)


As of January 2013, you are allowed to carry a mobile phone from outside the country into North Korea. You will not be able to use your current SIM card in North Korea, however. The only network you are allowed to connect to is the local network, Koryolink, via one of their SIM cards. Your phone must be a 3G WCDMA phone which can connect to the 2100MHz 3G frequency band.

A 3G mobile phone network (Koryolink) was introduced in Pyongyang in 2008 and now covers the 42 largest cities. It is widely used by locals who can afford it and by long-staying foreigners who file an application. SIM cards and phones can be purchased at the International Communication Center, No.2 Pothonggang-dong in Pothonggang District, opposite the Pyongyang Indoor Stadium, as well as at Pyongyang airport and some hotels. As of 25 Feb 2013, 3G mobile internet via Koryolink is available to foreigners, although pricing is currently unknown. Bear in mind that these SIM cards will only let you call internationally and to a very small number of internationally-enabled phones in North Korea. There are three plans you can choose from for your SIM card:

  1. Purchase a prepaid SIM card for €50. This gives you the SIM card to keep indefinitely for return visits, and includes a small amount (less than €30) of calling credit.
  2. Rent a prepaid SIM card for two weeks for €50. This includes €30 of calling credit.
  3. Rent a prepaid SIM card for one month for €75. This includes €55 of calling credit.

Calling rates are as follows:

  • China and South-East Asia: €1.43 per minute.
  • Russia: €0.68 per minute.
  • France and Switzerland: €0.38 per minute.
  • U.K. and Germany: €1.58 per minute.

International calling is generally possible via landlines in hotels, though it is expensive (€2 per minute as of Feb 2012) and all calls are likely recorded and monitored.

Local calls need elusive 10 chon coins when calling from call boxes, but can also be made from hotels and post offices.

Additionally, your phone calls may be heavily monitored, so you should be careful of what you talk about in phone calls that you make in North Korea.


Internet facilities are limited to a very few North Koreans with appropriate privileges to use it. For foreigners, most of the larger hotels have Internet access available, but this needs to be applied for some days in advance. Advise your tour operator or inviting party of your requirements well ahead of time so that access permission can be arranged. There are no public internet cafés or business centres with web access in the hotels. Mobile internet is available via Koryolink's 3G network (see above) using a local SIM card, but details about this are currently scarce. Also note that even if you have Internet access, your traffic will probably be monitored. There is very little Internet connectivity in North Korea; the little that exists is routed through mainland China and risks heavy censorship by that country's Golden Shield Project, the "Great Firewall of China".


There is a growing diplomatic presence of foreign embassies in Pyongyang. Find out beforehand which country can assist you in case of an emergency, such as a medical condition or a police incident.

Sweden serves as the protecting power for American, Australian, and Canadian travellers in North Korea, so these visitors may be able to obtain limited consular services from the Swedish embassy in Pyongyang. American nationals are strongly recommended by the U.S. Department of State to notify (by email) the Swedish embassy of their visit to North Korea, as well as to inform the U.S. embassy in Beijing, China, particularly if their trip to North Korea entails passing through China.

The British embassy offers consular services to Commonwealth citizens who do not have representation through other countries, except for Singaporeans and Tanzanians, whose governments have opted out of this arrangement.

Hear about travel to northern South Korea as the Amateur Traveler talks to Katie of aroundtheworldinktdays.com about the area of South Korea where she is living.

Photo: Ikowh Babayev

It is absolutely true to say that had my life continued “normally” I may not have visited the places that I have recently, nor written my book “Revolutions”. That is not to say I had not dreamt of visiting the Taj Mahal or the Kremlin or Mount Fuji or any of the places I have been to. I can remember far too many years ago plotting out a coast to coast road trip across America when procrastinating instead of revising for my A-levels.

I have always been addicted to travel. I was inspired (and still am) by Michael Palin, Michael Crichton and Neil Peart, as well as Paul Theroux, Bill Bryson and Liz Gilbert to name a few more, but, in the back of my mind, big adventures were done by other people. By writers, by rich people, by journalists, by bohemians, by weirdos; not normal people, not working class lads from Liverpool, not people like us.

I had also dreamt of writing a book. And, yes, I couldn’t do that either. This was done by other people too. By … writers.

Maybe then I should be thankful for the big kick in the nuts life gave me. Whilst getter a gentler shove may have been easier to take, maybe a shake-up is what we all need. (Everyone should read the “Joy of Burnout” by Dina Glouberman).

Yet whether in normal life or whether shaken to the core, it seems to me, it is fear that stops us doing anything. In Berlin over two years ago, I was so fragile. I was beaten and battered. Everything I had worked for was gone. I was scared of what I would do next. Yet when I think back to my life before this, it was also full of fear. I was always worried about upsetting my wife or my boss (usually both), of losing my job, of not being as smart as others and so having to work harder than anyone else. I was always worried about missing out and I never took a chance. We are fed fear constantly by parents, friends, bosses and the world as a whole: the fear of screwing up, of unknown food, of unknown places and of other people; the fear of the economy collapsing, the fear of not having enough savings or a healthy enough pension; the fear of any kind of change – to stick with what you know. Even sportsman seemed to be full of fear; Tim Henman wilting with the weight of his country at Wimbledon. Even international tennis champions, Nastase, McEnroe and Lendl seemed full of fear, anger and bitterness. My own sporting hero, the footballer Alan Hansen, always said that the fear of losing outweighed the joy of winning. Those with no fear were the strange ones … Sir Richard Branson in his balloon, Boris Becker on the tennis court before he grew up.

It cost me less to travel around the world than I had thought.

So how can we enjoy ourselves in this thick mist of fear? Even my own healing road has been a stop start affair; an emotional moment at the Great Wall of China and a week later I was standing in a divorce court; an evening light show at Chichen Itza and a week later I was having a knee operation.

So what has changed for me? Absolutely nothing. All my fears from before are still there – of not having enough money, of not being loved, of being away from home too much, of not pleasing everybody, of disconnecting from corporate life for too long, of not being busy all the time, of being robbed, of being unsafe, of being too cold, of being too hot and definitely of mosquito bites.

In fact, I have added some more to my list. I have now released my first book and putting this article out there. I am bearing my soul in public. I am opening up to the world. (Although I do take solace from Neil Gaiman’s wonderful quote, “The moment that you feel that just possibly you are walking down the street naked, that’s the moment you may be starting to get it right.”)

As with most people, money worries are top of my list. Money matters. Yet, in my experience, it has a way of coming in and of going out all by itself. Despite the law of attraction, despite manifestation and despite the masses of blogs on how to make money from our passions, I still haven’t mastered this and I personally don’t know anyone who has.

Yet, I have found I need less money than I ever imagined. It cost me less to travel around the world than I had thought. On returning from my circumnavigation of the world, I went for a beer with an ex-work colleague. He told me of all the reasons why he couldn’t do a crazy trip like mine and then went on to tell me of another colleague who had recently bought a new car for £60,000. (Yes, £60,000!). I certainly did not scrimp or save on my trip of a lifetime, but I could have done an additional three revolutions of the earth for this amount of money.

This is the crux. I added experience to counter balance my fears. I have given credence to my dreams.

I experienced sharing a tiny compartment with a Russian policeman on the Trans Siberia Railway. I walked across frozen Lake Baikal. I watched from the outer deck as the ferry cracked the thick ice leaving the bay of Vladivostok toward the Sea of Japan. I wore a silk kimono in a honkon near Fuji and again in a shukubo temple in Koya and I was in awe of the spiritual atmosphere at Miyajima. I eyed my journey as it was on laid out on a huge map in deserted Dorasan station at the DMZ on the border of South and North Korea. I crossed the international dateline as the only passenger on a container ship, standing elatedly at the very front of the vessel in the middle of the mighty Pacific Ocean. I had time enough to read Tolstoy, Frankl, Hesse, Verne, Theroux and Crichton, as well as Bandler, McKenna and Ferriss. Even my bad experiences, such as a car crash in South Korea, of witnessing the sad commuters in Chicago and Tokyo, the soullessness of Seoul and being more alone than ever with the over fed and nearly dead on a cruise ship across the Atlantic Ocean, are more valuable to me than being in job that didn’t serve my soul or than having a new car. (But each to his own).

Dreams are not for others. Dreams are for each and every one of us. This is not an exclusive club. Change can be painful but nothing is a painful as staying in a rut and watching our dreams die. More like this: How to quit your job and travel the world

Photo: focal_leat

Ireland is an easy place to visit, with a famously friendly population. With the countryside of technicolor greens, cold Guinness and live music in homey pubs, the stark stone cottages of the Aran Islands, a slab of warm soda bread with tea on a rainy day. Each year, Ireland hosts millions of travelers: hikers, historians, bibliophiles and beer-ophiles, looking for a bit of the famous Irish craic. Here are a some guaranteed experiences you’ll have on a trip to Ireland and a few spots we recommend you visit.

1. Rich cultural history

 Trinity College DublinDublin, IrelandYou don’t want to miss this. The stunning architecture of Trinity College. It is a perfect place to stroll around after a pint of Guinness. Also don’t miss the Book of Kells in the library. #free #history #ireland #architecture

Ireland may be small, but culturally speaking, it is a giant. From literature to music, Ireland has produced some of the greats. Joyce, Yeats, Beckett, Shaw, Wilde, Sinead O’Connor, U2, Brendan Gleeson, Francis Bacon, Neil Jordan…I could go on, but gloating doesn’t become us.

 Ireland’s School of FalconryGalway, IrelandFlying the Falcons at Ashford Castle with my brother and sister is something that We’ll all remember for a very long time. Definitely the highlight from our time in Ireland. #falconry #ireland

The ruins of Dunluce Castle

At Dunluce Castle outside Portrush in Northern Ireland, there are megalithic stone formations just next to the road, castles crumbling into fields or perched on cliffs, and random walls and forts and towers scattered around the country. Photo by Kate Siobhan Mulligan.

2. Beautiful countryside

 Connemara National ParkGalway, IrelandIf Western Ireland is calling you, do not pass up the Twelve Bens, the mountain range located in the Connemara region. There are numerous hikes that take you into the range, but the Diamond Hill trail is a great introduction with spectacular views. The 7km loop will gradually take you through bog land before gaining elevation, gifting you with views out to the coast line. At the summit, you can delight in a sweeping 360• panorama. It’s gorgeous and moderate, a perfect start to your trekking adventures! #hiking #ireland #galway #connemara #diamondhill #mountains #europe #explore

Ireland is tiny, so you’d think we would see more of it, but until recently the roads were too crappy to traverse the island that much. The Cliffs of Moher carve a zig-zag out of the Clare coast, The Burren is a vast limestone wonderland filled with bogs housing our ancestors and preserving them perfectly, if a bit leathery. The Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (although technically in Northern Ireland, not the Republic). And I can guarantee you you’ve never seen so many rainbows in your life. That’s because of all the leprechauns. Seriously. (Or the rain, but whatever…)

Giant’s Causeway

Giant’s Causeway, located in Northern Ireland. This geological formation is worth the trip. The hexagonal basalt columns are larger than your feet, of all different heights and shades of grey. Photo by Kate Siobhan Mulligan.

The Cliffs of Moher

The iconic Cliffs of Moher are about an hour south of Galway, in County Clare. Stay for sunset. Photo by Kate Siobhan Mulligan.

3. The Irish language

 Powerscourt House & GardensWicklow, Ireland#green #horses

Ahhhh, Gaeilge. It may not be evolving, but it’s still there, on ATMs, at bus stops, and in some parts, it’s still thriving. Seeing as every Irish person has to take it for their Leaving Cert, it enables even the least fluent of us to have a solid linguistic back-up when travelling. We can bitch and moan about people in our immediate vicinity without them having a clue what we’re saying. Granted, slurs don’t get much more vulgar than “Póg mo thóin” (Kiss my ass), but regardless, it’s something we’ve got that no one else does. So there.

4. Friendly people

 Old Jameson DistilleryDublin, IrelandDoes one really need a reason to pop in for a tour and a drink? It doesn’t disappoint

We’re friendly as fuck. The fact that we don’t even hate the English anymore is proof that we can make amends with pretty much anyone. Anyone visiting our fair nation will come back with tales of invitations to dine with the natives, breaking bread, swigging whiskey, and singing songs until the wee hours. The weather may be shit, but we make up for it with our good vibes and open door policy.

The people in those pubs

Ray Blackwell, the manager of De Barras in Clonakilty. De Barras was recently voted (again) as one of the best pubs in all of Ireland. Photo by Kate Siobhan Mulligan

5. Neutrality

 Cliffs of MoherClare, IrelandThe incredible Cliffs of Moher on the west coast of #Ireland

Ireland’s political neutrality has safeguarded us from war and diplomatic red-flagging. The Irish are natural fence sitters, choosing to keep the peace rather than rock the boat, which leads larger land masses to welcome us with open arms, saying “Come! Tend our bars, heal our sick, pick our apples! We know you mean no harm!”. They say the our army is the fittest in the world, training around the clock for a battle that will never be fought.

6. The rain

 O’Brien’s TowerClare, IrelandBeautiful tower at the Cliffs of Moher

The rain in Ireland is practically perpetual. We don’t even really have seasons anymore, you can just tell what time of year it is by the quantity and temperature of the drizzle or downpour. However, the rain bestows on us a particular hardiness, an all-weather resistance that those from more tropical nations lack. Nothing can phase us. No yoga class shall go unattended, no party un-partied, no barbeque un-grilled, and no school missed. We are Irish, and we brave the weather without raincoats or umbrellas, baring our chests and legs to the elements in defiance of Mother Nature’s constant test.


A small town on the Beara Peninsula. Photo by Scott Sporleder.

7. Security

 Glenveagh CastleCounty Donegal, IrelandCastle out on a lake in the middle of nowhere. Rent a bike in the parking lot and go for a cruise up the lake. Lots of different trees and plants and a beautiful garden at the castle. #castle #bike #lake

The Emerald Isle is very safe. Since the recession things, like phones have become a hot commodity for thieves, and say goodbye to your bike if you leave it in town overnight, but apart from that, it’s fairly chill in terms of danger. There’s no large-scale drug racket like in Mexico, no sprawling slums like in Brazil, no man-eating bears like in Canada, and no spirit-crushing dictators like in North Korea. The most perilous thing you’ll encounter at night is a drunk stumbling home after a night’s drinking, and he’s too busy worrying about the holy show he made of himself to bother with you.

I visited the ‘Democratic People’s Republic of Korea’ over the 2016 Christmas period. Many photos were deleted by a North Korean soldier when leaving the country, but I had backups. 1

North Korean state worker stares out of train window.


Morning commute through the Pyongyang Docklands.


Soldiers walks through Kim Il-Sung Square. The square where the regime parades its military prowess. Propaganda is blasted from speakers continuously.


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Propaganda billboards


Dilapidated apartments blocks without electricity or adequate heating.


Communist statue on the banks of the Taedong River


Monument to the ‘supreme leaders’ or North Korea. We were encouraged to buy flowers and present them at the foot of the statue.


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Pedestrians pass by the Ryungyong Hotel. Construction halted in 1992 due to economic difficulties. It remains unopened to this day


A genuine smile is hard to find in North Korea, but not impossible!


Monument to the Korean Workers Party

It depicts a hammer, sickle and brush held by a worker, farmer and an intellectual


Monument to the Korean Workers Party


State library with plenty of bias literature towards the regime.


Commuting to work by bicycle.

The average wage in North Korea is $20-25 per month.


Tower of the Juche Idea


Cycling along the Taedong River


State Office blocks


Anti-tank defences at DMZ border dividing North and South Korea


Passing through the poverty stricken rural areas on the way to the DMZ. Photo taken from bus


State Industrial Zone at the end of the working day.


Military officer standing guard at the DMZ South/North Korean border


Sunset over the capital city, Pyongyang.


There is no escaping the propaganda


The largest Victory arch in the world for a war that was never won. It is 10 meters taller than France’s Arc de Triomphe complete with a lobby, elevators, movie rooms and secret passages


Dockland workers camp


Aerial view of the North Korean state library


Aerial view of Taedong River bank


Aerial view of the hermit Kingdom


Propaganda poster in the city of Kaesong

It was a given that I would go to Turkmenistan and something strange would happen.

The main thing I knew about Turkmenistan was that it was often compared to North Korea, which, for me, was a selling point. I wanted to see an authoritarian regime up close, to see if brainwashing and erratic behavior really fooled people. Did the country run on cathartic conversations that took place behind closed doors and a population outwardly smiling and inwardly planning a rebellion?

It turns out those questions are hard to answer on a 5-day visit that I’m supposedly spending transiting between two adjacent countries that share a border. I probably should have seen this coming, along with the fact that most people don’t seem outwardly concerned with parsing the truth from the lies 25 years into an absolute dictatorship. Their everyday concerns seemed more similar to my own — family, friends, money, career — which is not to say that things are all well and good in Turkmenistan, or that the government isn’t as bad as it seems. It is instead more likely a testament to the human ability to adapt, for life to go on, and for what was once unimaginable to eventually seem normal, whether it’s living under a president who renames the days of the week after members of his family, or staying in a hotel run by the secret police.

I did not make reservations for the Secret Police Hotel. I end up there because it is the only place that cops to having vacancies, and also because I am not an artist.

I get dropped off at a hotel with reviews that, for Ashgabat, passed for glowing.

Ashgabat is the capital of Turkmenistan and the country’s second-biggest tourist attraction, after a burning crater that I’d spent a miserable night camping beside.

Tourists come to Ashgabat because it’s rumored to be strange, and it is. After the fall of the Soviet Union, an eccentric dictator named Saparmurat Niyazov seized control of Turkmenistan and started issuing increasingly bizarre edicts. He changed his name to “Father of the Turkmen People” and named a meteorite after himself. He banned lip synching and decreed that a spectacle of music and dancing greet him wherever he went. Like any good self-published author or authoritarian fostering a cult of personality, he forced everyone to read his book.

He also completely rebuilt Ashgabat, which had once been a typical Soviet city, and is now a combination safe space for marble and shrine to Niyazov and his successor, Gurbangaly Berdimuhamedow. Marble buildings proliferate throughout the city, which currently holds the Guinness record for “highest density of white marble-clad buildings.” These are not elegant marble buildings. They are marble buildings for the sake of being marble buildings, with design plans that look like they were lifted from Google images. In between the marble buildings, you can find gold statues of the country’s two presidents, or gold statues of Niyazov’s memoir, or gold statues of indiscernible subjects that might as well be the president.

Back to the hotel. In an unexpectedly chaotic lobby, I’m asking a receptionist for a room.

She stares at me. “Are you an artist?” she asks.

I tell her I’m not.

She shakes her head. “If you’re not an artist, you can’t stay here.”

Perplexed, I head to the next-best hotel in the Lonely Planet. This time, I’m prepared.

“Hello,” I say. “I’d like a room, and I’m an artist.”

But this hotel is full, as is the next one, and the one after that, which has a travel agency inside the lobby.

“Do you know why all of the hotels are full?” I ask the woman working there.

She looks confused. “They’re full?” She offers to go check something. She’s gone for a long time. When she comes back, she seems surprised to still find me waiting. “I don’t know,” she tells me.

I am somewhat starting to panic. What if I can’t find a hotel? I’d like to think of myself as the kind of person who could, in an emergency, hole up in a bus station for the evening, but that seems like a risky move in an authoritarian state, and also that would mean forgoing my night creams.

Two university students I stop on the street for directions seem to pick up on my distress. They also speak passable English. When I tell them my story, they insist on accompanying me to the next hotel, and also because this is Central Asia, carrying my suitcase.

“It rolls,” I protest, and while they do acquiesce to rolling it, they don’t budge on not letting me roll it.

Like all male students in Turkmenistan, the boys are dressed in plain black suits affixed with some kind of pin. The girls, in contrast, wear floor-length dresses of a vibrant green, traditional hats, and two long braids. I ask the boys why their English is so good.

“The Russians are stealing all of our jobs,” one says, shaking his head. “For the future, we must speak English.”

This job-stealing claim seems curious, given that I’ve seen exactly zero ethnic Russians in the prosperous capital, and that all of the government ministers pictured on various walls and buildings appear to be Turkmen men. But I remember that I am helpless and homeless, so I say nothing.

The next hotel is full too. So is the next, and, at this point, I beg the boys to go back to whatever they were doing before I inadvertently suckered them into escorting an ill-prepared foreigner to various disinterested hotels, but they refuse.

“You don’t understand,” one says. “I think most people here… they won’t even know how to deal with foreigners.”

I will later come to the conclusion that he was right. The requirements for foreigners staying in Turkmen hotels are so byzantine and needlessly time-consuming that some of places I first visited might have pretended to be full, or reserved exclusively for artists, to avoid the headache. To stay at a hotel, the hotel has to give me paperwork, which I need to bring to a specific branch of a specific bank, where I need to change the total charge for my stay into local currency, which the bank needs to confirm via endless stamps on that paperwork, which I can then bring back to the hotel to begin the process of checking in.

The one place that admits to having vacancies is the MKD hotel. This is perhaps because one of the students insists on calling ahead from a dead-end hotel and asking for a room without specifying that it’s for me. If I knew my Soviet history, I would know that the MKD was a Soviet secret police force. But because I don’t, I’m only confused when I noticed that everyone who passes through the lobby is wearing a full police uniform.

I will later speculate that the hotel is operated by the MKD to raise funds, the way some police forces hold bake sales. But for now, I am merely confused when I open the door to my room and find a police officer scrubbing the toilet.

He finishes and leaves, allowing me to look around the space, which is billed as deluxe suite. It comes with a living room, bedroom, and bathroom, which is helpful, because I’m sharing my room with an entire colony of cockroaches.

Not eager to spend much time getting to know my new roommates, I head out to explore the city.


It’s illegal to take photographs in public in Ashgabat, so when I see something I want to take a picture of, I discreetly open my iPhone camera and place the phone to my ear like I’m taking a call. I attempt to hold the phone perpendicular to the ground and press the volume buttons on the side, which snaps the shutter. This is my small act of rebellion, and I perform it with as much bravado as a person slinking into a department store to use the bathroom. Most of my photos come out severely tilted, or obscured by strands of my hair.

The city feels like it was designed and built for a population that never materialized. The wide sidewalks and marble underground passageways are mostly empty. The marble highrises appear minimally inhabited. The only people reliably found on the street are police officers, who are everywhere, guarding what often seems like nothing. There’s a pair posted up at the entrance to a square not far from my hotel, and they tell me I can’t walk through. It’s closed, they tell me, for rehearsals for an upcoming military parade.

I smile. “That’s interesting,” I say. “Can I see it?”

We chat for a few minutes, and then they concede that I can walk through if I do it “quickly,” and I’m congratulating myself on once again skirting the rules when one of the officers tells me he wants to take me on a date tonight and asks for my phone number.

I’m instantly terrified. I don’t dare give him a fake number, because, in a police state, it seems like a bad idea to romantically reject the police. I scribble my real number on a piece of paper and scurry away, resolving not to answer my phone for the duration of my stay, but it turns out there’s no need — he never calls, an outcome I’m not sure is more or less desirable: being romantically rejected by the police in a police state.

Oddities abound. I find a park being built, not by construction workers, but by students. I pass countless statues of angry looking men holding swords, which I keep mistaking for actual people and jumping. I pass a square closed for a changing of the guards, which I’m bizarrely allowed to walked through, and as I do, one of the less disciplined guards breaks from his goose-stepping to stop and stare at me.

One night, I end up in a lively restaurant filled with Turkish expats, who apparently make up a good portion of the labor force in Turkmenistan. (The two countries share similar languages and cultures, and their governments sporadically push for closer ties.) I’m the only woman in the room, with the exception of the waitresses, who are all wearing fully transparent shirts. A bookish young guy in glasses at the table next to me strikes up a conversation in English, and I ask him, delicately, about the nature of the relationship between the clientele and the women working here.

He picks up on my meaning and laughs. “No, no,” he protests. “Turkish men, we can’t talk to women here. It’s forbidden to… go on a date. Unless you’re married.”

At 10:45, he turns to me again. I’ve finished my dinner, but have stayed at my table, reading a book in a room full of drunk people, because this seems preferable to reading my book in a hotel room full of cockroaches.

“Are you driving home?” he asks me.

I shake my head.

“You should go now then,” he says. “The curfew starts at 11.”

“What?!?!” I say.

Yes, he explains, people aren’t allowed out on the streets after 11.

“How can you live here?” I ask.

He shrugs. “It’s not so bad. The work is pretty good.”


Sightseeing in Ashgabat is less about seeing things that are beautiful or educational or historically important, and more about visiting things that are weird. I walk through a deserted park to visit a monument that looks like a giant toilet plunger. I go inside an empty, gold-plated mall shaped like a pyramid. At a nearby supermarket, I ride the country’s sole set of escalators. I walk around the ritzy central district, with chrome traffic lights and streetlamp that look like they’re made of marble. I encounter one set of automatic doors, at the Sofitel, and they’re so unimaginably slow and clunky I wonder if they’re the original model. In a taxi one day, I pass the biggest construction project I’ve ever seen. It looks like an airport, train station, Olympic stadium, and superhighway–all in one. It’s almost like Ashgabat lost a bid to host the Olympics, and then decided to build all the infrastructure anyway. I walk by women in traditional Turkmen dress, hand-washing a bus stop.

At first, I’m try to strike up conversations with everyone I meet, looking for hints of dissidence. I chat up taxi drivers, the woman who works at my hotel’s front desk, people in convenience stores and restaurants. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, people seem most interested in talking about the things people anywhere would — their lives and jobs and families. They ask the same questions about my marital status and womb output. I begin to worry that I’d fetishized their oppression, that I’d seen intrigue and interest in what is, I’m coming to realize, a depressing reality. The city is full of marble, but most of the residents seem far from rich. Their grasp on the outside world seems tenuous.

For the first time in my life, I feel isolated. It’s kind of like loneliness, but more, and different. I go days without a real conversation. When a taxi driver learns that I don’t have children, he tries to explain the mechanics of human reproduction. When I ask the front-desk woman for a restaurant recommendation, she looks at me like I’ve asked her to explain string theory, and then shakes her head and tells me she doesn’t know any. There’s only one place in the entire country where I can access the Internet, and the connection is slow, and most sites are blocked.

I spend days inside my own head, snapping out of it only when two men try to kidnap me in a car one evening. The fallout forces me to push past the cultural and communication barrier, and I start opening up to everyone. I end up having to call an ex-boyfriend to help translate, and at the end of the night, the front-desk woman, with whom I’ve probably had more conversations with anyone else in the past few days, turns to me.

“Ilya is very worried about you,” she says.

“I know,” I sigh, and then I find myself blurting out, “Before, he was my boyfriend, and I think he still loves me.”

“Do you have children?” she asks in what I don’t recognize as an attempt to change the topic. Instead, I mistake it for a conservative woman with two grown children’s bid for girl talk.

“No,” I say, “and I think Ilya wants to marry me, and have children, but I really love to travel…” I trail off because I’m out of vocabulary, but I’m desperate to keep going. It’s been days, I realized, since I had a real conversation, since my thoughts and fears and feelings were on anything but an endless loop in my head. I want to tell her every secret I’ve ever had, every feeling, every doubt.

She looks mortified. “I think, you are a teacher, so you love children!” she replies. Then she politely but firmly turns back to something at her desk.

I trudge back up the stairs to my room. In the hallway, I see an MKV officer, sweeping the floor.

This article originally appeared on Medium and is republished here with permission.

My Holiday in North Korea: The Funniest/Worst Place on Earth

Wendy E. Simmons

Most people want out of North Korea. Wendy Simmons wanted in.In My Holiday in North Korea: The Funniest/Worst Place on Earth, Wendy shares a glimpse of North Korea as it’s never been seen before. Even though it’s the scariest place on Earth, somehow Wendy forgot to check her sense of humor at the border.But Wendy’s initial amusement and bewilderment soon turned to frustration and growing paranoia. Before long, she learned the essential conundrum of “tourism” in North Korea: Travel is truly a love affair. But, just like love, it’s a two-way street. And North Korea deprives you of all this. They want you to fall in love with the singular vision of the country they’re willing to show you and nothing more.Through poignant, laugh-out-loud essays and 92 never-before-published color photographs of North Korea, Wendy chronicles one of the strangest vacations ever. Along the way, she bares all while undergoing an inner journey as convoluted as the country itself.

Daily Life in North Korea

Andrei Lankov

From the surprisingly placid criminal gangs of Pyongyang, to the rules of decorum that apply to women, to the decline in army recruitment as black market entrepreneurs grow increasingly wealthy: these articles cover all aspects of North Korean society.One of the rare foreigners to have studied in North Korea, Dr. Andrei Lankov is in a unique position to interpret North Korea's culture and society to a foreign audience. Accepted into the prestigious faculty of Oriental Studies at Leningrad State university during the declining days of the Soviet Union, Lankov had originally hoped to study Chinese. Instead, he found himself specialising in North Korean studies, an eccentric option even within the Soviet Bloc.The Faculty of Oriental Studies was world apart from the daily life of the average Soviet citizen, in which well-paid Professors avoided their students as much as they possibly could and took refuge from current political troubles in obscure corners of classical philology. Even within this world, North Korean studies were a minority interest. As Lankov himself put it: “Most of the time, Korean departments played host to undergraduates deemed not good enough to be accepted to more prestigious and competitive majors like, say, Japanese and Arab studies. This meant that interest in things Korean was present but not necessarily enthusiastic. It did not help, of course, that North Korea, with its bizarre political system, hysterical propaganda and crazy personality cult was seen as a laughing stock in the entire socialist bloc of the time.”Despite this, Lankov pursued his studies and was eventually dispatched to Pyongyang to study at Kim Il Sung University. Here he gained first-hand experience of life in North Korea: restrictions on movement, ideological proselitizing, corruption and black-market trading. After graduating he taught Korean history and language at his alma mater before moving on to the Australian National University and Kookmin University in Seoul and bringing his knowledge of the closed world of North Korea to a wider audience via a variety of media outlets, including NK News.In this volume we bring together a selection of Andrei Lankov's most popular columns for NK News, illustrated with luminous photographs by Eric Lafforgue.

Without You, There Is No Us: Undercover Among the Sons of North Korea's Elite

Suki Kim

A haunting account of teaching English to the sons of North Korea's ruling class during the last six months of Kim Jong-il's reign   Every day, three times a day, the students march in two straight lines, singing praises to Kim Jong-il and North Korea: Without you, there is no motherland. Without you, there is no us. It is a chilling scene, but gradually Suki Kim, too, learns the tune and, without noticing, begins to hum it. It is 2011, and all universities in North Korea have been shut down for an entire year, the students sent to construction fields—except for the 270 students at the all-male Pyongyang University of Science and Technology (PUST), a walled compound where portraits of Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il look on impassively from the walls of every room, and where Suki has gone undercover as a missionary and a teacher. Over the next six months, she will eat three meals a day with her young charges and struggle to teach them English, all under the watchful eye of the regime. Life at PUST is lonely and claustrophobic, especially for Suki, whose letters are read by censors and who must hide her notes and photographs not only from her minders but from her colleagues—evangelical Christian missionaries who don't know or choose to ignore that Suki doesn't share their faith. As the weeks pass, she is mystified by how easily her students lie, unnerved by their obedience to the regime. At the same time, they offer Suki tantalizing glimpses of their private selves—their boyish enthusiasm, their eagerness to please, the flashes of curiosity that have not yet been extinguished. She in turn begins to hint at the existence of a world beyond their own—at such exotic activities as surfing the Internet or traveling freely and, more dangerously, at electoral democracy and other ideas forbidden in a country where defectors risk torture and execution. But when Kim Jong-il dies, and the boys she has come to love appear devastated, she wonders whether the gulf between her world and theirs can ever be bridged. Without You, There Is No Us offers a moving and incalculably rare glimpse of life in the world's most unknowable country, and at the privileged young men she calls "soldiers and slaves."

The Aquariums of Pyongyang: Ten Years in the North Korean Gulag

Chol-hwan Kang

North Korea is today one of the last bastions of hard-line Communism. Its leaders have kept a tight grasp on their one-party regime, quashing any nascent opposition movements and sending all suspected dissidents to its brutal concentration camps for "re-education." Kang Chol-hwan is the first survivor of one of these camps to escape and tell his story to the world, documenting the extreme conditions in these gulags and providing a personal insight into life in North Korea. Part horror story, part historical document, part memoir, part political tract, this record of one man's suffering gives eyewitness proof to an ongoing sorrowful chapter of modern history. New edition with a new preface by the author.

North Korea Guide Book: Be Very Scared

Alun Hill

Public Hangings:

Tickets for these are understandably popular, but your hotel can usually get you good seats for a small fee. 

Restaurants / Dining Out:

Westerners in particular find many of the meals offered to be unusual, although nutritious dog and (protein rich) caterpillars are making fewer appearances on tourist menus these days. 

Always remember that if you don’t actually enjoy a meal, it is unlikely that you will keep it for long, anyway. 


Please do not bring pornography into the country. 

It will be supplied in your hotel room, on your coach tour TV (usually in black and white) and inside your restaurant menu (except at breakfast time, for obvious reasons). 

Departure Tax:

A departure tax of USD127 (no change given) is payable, only in fresh US dollars. 

93% of visitors in a recent survey declared this as “a bargain”. 

A dollar cash machine is available in the departure area of Pyongyang International Airport. 

If the electricity is off due to maintenance, please use the adjacent winding handle to retrieve your cash and, usually, your card. 

American Express is particularly welcome. 

Your Hotel: 

Location: in the middle of Taedong river on Yanggak island 

Floors: 47, of which 23 have been mostly completed 

Rooms: 1,000 rooms. Deluxe suites, and standard class rooms. International phone, tv, refrigerator in each room all of which occasionally work 

Warm water supply : 24 hrs a day from 1am to 3.15am 

Restaurants: 2 Korean food restaurants (mostly dog and a local variety of succulent hedgehog), 1 Japanese (serving sushi, DPRK style. Mostly dog and a local variety of hedgehog, wrapped in rice, and served raw) and 1 Chinese food restaurant (all Chinese style food served, especially dog and the local hedgehog. Here they are mixed with curried dog and hedgehog (local variety) and won ton soup. 

There is also a revolting bar/restaurant on the 46th floor (planned for when the remaining 24 floors get built). 

Other facilities: A full size bowling alley, a beauty salon, a full international standard casino, a karaoke hall, a ladies hairdressing saloon, a billiard saloon, a souvenir shop, bookshop and a post office are not available. 

An open air-grill and a golf track with a floor of space 9,000 square meters are also not included in this hotel, but were on the original plans and therefore often get mentioned in tourist guides. 

What to Eat: 

This is a typical North Korean restaurant meal and is eaten by worker peasants (2nd class) at special celebrations (a rich uncle dying and leaving no debt, for example). 

There’s nothing better on a warm crostini rubbed with a clove of garlic and nice glass of cold white wine on a warm summer evening, but none of that is currently available in North Korea. 

It consists of tomatoes (grown along the local river bed, which also serves as a water supply route and sewer), grass pollen, pasta shaped twigs and all is ensconced in a satisfying bed of sheep mucus. 

Place onto a lightly oiled (industrial oil is perfectly acceptable) baking tray, cover with a damp tea towel, then leave to prove in a warm place for around 1 hour, or until doubled in size, if no-one hungry passing by grabs it first. 

This is also great mixed under a large platter of hot spaghetti with a big sprinkling of parmesan and we hope to get both ingredients in future years.

All our bread is gluten free as we don’t like gluttons. 

Useful North Korea Phrases:

What is that smell? 

naemsae neun mueos-ibnikka? 

Do you have toilet paper? How much for 4 sheets? 


NORTH KOREA Country Studies: A brief, comprehensive study of North Korea


A brief yet detailed report on the country of North Korea with updated information on the map, flag, history, people, economics, political conditions in government, foreign affairs, and U.S. relations.

North Korea, South Korea, The Forgotten War: 2 sided [Tubed] (National Geographic Reference Map)

National Geographic Maps - Reference

This two-sided map of North Korea and South Korea explores the historical and ongoing political challenges of this region. One side displays a detailed political map and inset maps on population, economy, and armaments. The reverse side features pictures and maps of the Korean War, as well as a colorful relief map that reveals the rugged physical geography of the Korean peninsula. New place-names introduced by the South Korean government are shown--changing places such as Pusan to Busan and Cheju to Jeju.Map is printed on premium quality paper stock, rolled, and packaged in a clear, hard plastic tube.Map Scale = 1:1,357,000Sheet Size = 23.25" x 35.75"

North Korea: Anonymous Country

Julia Leeb, JR and Niko Karasek

North Korea certainly wouldn't come first on a general list of dream destinations. Nevertheless, the country exudes an eerie fascination. It's a mystery, an anonymous country isolated from the rest of the world. With two friends, German photojournalist Julia Leeb made a journey to better understand the country and its people. The result is a spectacular illustrated volume that offers a riveting look at its architecture, culture, and society. Readers get to immerse themselves in an unknown world. We witness celebrations for the 100th birthday of the country's founder, Kim Il Sung, and follow hundreds of North Koreans as they participate in an Arirang (Korean folk song) synchronized dance spectacle. But even the "quieter" impressions evoke emotion in the viewer: an excited bride, a mother with child--everyday scenes that are somehow quite different. These multi-layered images linger in the memory long afterwards, even when you have already put the book aside.


The decision to travel is your responsibility. You are also responsible for your personal safety abroad. The purpose of this Travel Advice is to provide up-to-date information to enable you to make well-informed decisions.

Nuclear weapons development program

Tensions have increased in the region as a result of North Korea’s ongoing nuclear weapons development program. In April and December 2012, North Korea attempted to launch two missiles into orbit, and on February 12, 2013, performed a nuclear weapons test. Additional tests cannot be ruled out.

North Korea and South Korea

Relations between North Korea and South Korea remain tense. On March 11, 2013, North Korea issued a statement declaring that the Korean Armistice Agreement is invalid. While past threats made by the North to nullify this agreement have gone unfulfilled, this statement has raised tension in the region.

Border skirmishes with South Korean armed forces occur occasionally. The security situation could deteriorate suddenly. Due to very limited access to international media broadcasts in North Korea, you may be taken by surprise by events that could affect your security.


The crime rate is low. Petty crime occurs, especially at the airport in Pyongyang and in public markets. Ensure personal belongings, passports and other travel documents are secure at all times.


Travel within North Korea is severely restricted. Transportation is usually provided by local tour representatives or authorities. Traffic is usually minimal, and major highways are in good condition. Rural roads can be hazardous. Police checkpoints, usually located at the entry to towns, may require that travellers provide documentation before onward travel is permitted.

Consult our Transportation Safety page in order to verify if national airlines meet safety standards.

General safety information

There is no resident Canadian government office in the country. Register with the Embassy of Canada in Seoul, South Korea, and with the Swedish Embassy in Pyongyang.

Canadian or Swedish authorities may encounter major difficulties and delays in obtaining consular access to you if you are detained, particularly outside of the capital, Pyongyang. The provision of consular access is solely at the discretion of the North Korean government. Knowledge of North Korean police and judicial systems is limited, which may affect our ability to provide assistance to you.

Tourist facilities are minimal and telecommunications are unreliable. Individual tourism can be arranged only through a handful of North Korean government-approved travel agencies. Travel must be authorized in advance by the government. Travellers are closely observed. Hotel rooms, telephones and fax machines are monitored. There are serious shortages of food, electricity and clean water.


Related Travel Health Notices
Consult a health care provider or visit a travel health clinic preferably six weeks before you travel.

Routine Vaccines

Be sure that your routine vaccines are up-to-date regardless of your travel destination.

Vaccines to Consider

You may be at risk for these vaccine-preventable diseases while travelling in this country. Talk to your travel health provider about which ones are right for you.

Hepatitis A

Hepatitis A is a disease of the liver spread by contaminated food or water. All those travelling to regions with a risk of hepatitis A infection should get vaccinated.

Hepatitis B

Hepatitis B is a disease of the liver spread through blood or other bodily fluids. Travellers who may be exposed (e.g., through sexual contact, medical treatment or occupational exposure) should get vaccinated.


Seasonal influenza occurs worldwide. The flu season usually runs from November to April in the northern hemisphere, between April and October in the southern hemisphere and year round in the tropics. Influenza (flu) is caused by a virus spread from person to person when they cough or sneeze or through personal contact with unwashed hands. Get the flu shot.

Japanese encephalitis

Japanese encephalitis is a viral infection that can cause swelling of the brain. It is spread by the bite of an infected mosquito. Risk is low for most travellers. Vaccination should be considered for those who may be exposed to mosquito bites (e.g., spending time outdoors in rural areas) while travelling in regions with risk of Japanese encephalitis.


Measles occurs worldwide but is a common disease in developing countries, particularly in parts of Africa and Asia. Measles is a highly contagious disease. Be sure your vaccination against measles is up-to-date regardless of the travel destination.


Rabies is a disease that attacks the central nervous system spread to humans through a bite, scratch or lick from a rabid animal. Vaccination should be considered for travellers going to areas where rabies exists and who have a high risk of exposure (i.e., close contact with animals, occupational risk, and children).


Typhoid is a bacterial infection spread by contaminated food or water. Risk is higher among travellers going to rural areas, visiting friends and relatives, or with weakened immune systems. Travellers visiting regions with typhoid risk, especially those exposed to places with poor sanitation should consider getting vaccinated.

Yellow Fever Vaccination

Yellow fever is a disease caused by the bite of an infected mosquito.

Travellers get vaccinated either because it is required to enter a country or because it is recommended for their protection.

* It is important to note that country entry requirements may not reflect your risk of yellow fever at your destination. It is recommended that you contact the nearest diplomatic or consular office of the destination(s) you will be visiting to verify any additional entry requirements.
  • There is no risk of yellow fever in this country.
Country Entry Requirement*
  • Proof of yellow fever vaccination is required if you are coming from a country where yellow fever occurs.
  • Vaccination is not recommended.
  • Discuss travel plans, activities, and destinations with a health care provider.

Food and Water-borne Diseases

Travellers to any destination in the world can develop travellers' diarrhea from consuming contaminated water or food.

In some areas in East Asia, food and water can also carry diseases like cholera, hepatitis A, leptospirosis, schistosomiasis and typhoid. Practise safe food and water precautions while travelling in East Asia. Remember: Boil it, cook it, peel it, or leave it!

Travellers' diarrhea
  • Travellers' diarrhea is the most common illness affecting travellers. It is spread from eating or drinking contaminated food or water.
  • Risk of developing travellers’ diarrhea increases when travelling in regions with poor sanitation. Practise safe food and water precautions.
  • The most important treatment for travellers' diarrhea is rehydration (drinking lots of fluids). Carry oral rehydration salts when travelling.


Insects and Illness

In some areas in Eastern Asia, certain insects carry and spread diseases like chikungunya, Crimean-Congo hemorrhagic fever, dengue fever, Japanese encephalitis, leishmaniasis, Lyme disease, malaria, and tick-borne encephalitis.

Travellers are advised to take precautions against bites.



  • There is a risk of malaria in certain areas and/or during a certain time of year in this country.
  • Malaria is a serious and occasionally fatal disease that is spread by mosquitoes. There is no vaccine against malaria.
  • Protect yourself from mosquito bites. This includes covering up, using insect repellent and staying in well-screened, air-conditioned accommodations. You may also consider sleeping under an insecticide-treated bed net or pre-treating travel gear with insecticides.
  • Antimalarial medication may be recommended depending on your itinerary and the time of year you are travelling. See a health care provider or visit a travel health clinic, preferably six weeks before you travel to discuss your options.


Animals and Illness

Travellers are cautioned to avoid contact with animals, including dogs, monkeys, snakes, rodents, birds, and bats. Some infections found in some areas in Eastern Asia, like avian influenza and rabies, can be shared between humans and animals.


Person-to-Person Infections

Crowded conditions can increase your risk of certain illnesses. Remember to wash your hands often and practice proper cough and sneeze etiquette to avoid colds, the flu and other illnesses.

Sexually transmitted infections (STIs) and HIV are spread through blood and bodily fluids; practise safer sex.


Tuberculosis is an infection caused by bacteria and usually affects the lungs.

For most travellers the risk of tuberculosis is low.

Travellers who may be at high risk while travelling in regions with risk of tuberculosis should discuss pre- and post-travel options with a health care provider.

High-risk travellers include those visiting or working in prisons, refugee camps, homeless shelters, or hospitals, or travellers visiting friends and relatives.

Medical services and facilities

Medical services and facilities

Hospitals often lack heat and medicine, and suffer from frequent power outages. Immediate payment in cash is expected for treatment. A hospital staffed by English-speaking professionals is available to foreigners in the Munsudong district of Pyongyang. Medical evacuations are very difficult to arrange and are not guaranteed. You should take this into account prior to travel if you have an unstable medical condition. If you show symptoms of a serious communicable disease, you may be subject to strict quarantine conditions.

Keep in Mind...

The decision to travel is the sole responsibility of the traveller. The traveller is also responsible for his or her own personal safety.

Be prepared. Do not expect medical services to be the same as in Canada. Pack a travel health kit, especially if you will be travelling away from major city centres.

You are subject to local laws. Consult our Arrest and Detention page for more information.


You must be accompanied by an official guide at all times. Instructions provided by the guide must be adhered to. Tourists are not permitted to drive.

International driving permits are not recognized. Foreigners residing in the country must obtain a licence by passing a local driving test.

Penalties for possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs are strict. Convicted offenders can expect jail sentences and heavy fines.

Importation of satellite telephones and shortwave radios is prohibited. Such items are confiscated upon entry and usually returned upon departure. Authorities may seize any material that they deem to be pornographic, political or intended for religious proselytizing. Written material of any kind in the Korean language should not be brought into North Korea.

Involvement in politics and unsanctioned religious activity can result in detention.

Photography of airports, roads, bridges, seaports and rail stations is prohibited and may result in confiscation of equipment or detention. Seek permission from your tour guide before taking photographs.


Ensure that you are not seen to be critical of the country’s political system, current and former leaders Kim Jong Un, Kim Jong Il and Kim Il Sung, or members of their family.


The currency is North Korean won (KPW). Cash is the most recognized form of payment. The Euro is widely accepted; however, change is often unavailable. U.S. dollars and the Chinese renminbi are also accepted. Banking facilities are limited. Traveller’s cheques are not accepted. There are no automated banking machines. Some credit cards are accepted in some hotels if an advanced notice is given. Credit cards should be used with caution due to the potential for fraud and other criminal activity. Leave copies of your card numbers with a family member at home in case of emergency.


The rainy (monsoon) season extends from the end of June until August. Severe rainstorms can cause flooding and landslides. Typhoons occur in August and September, and can result in significant loss of life and extensive damage to infrastructure, as well as hamper the provision of essential services. Keep informed of regional weather forecasts, avoid disaster areas and follow the advice of local authorities.

See our Typhoons and monsoons page for more information.